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Guide to Buying a Used Motorcycle

Last Update: 20 January 2022

LAST UPDATED: 19 JAN. 2022

Guide To Buying a Used Motorcycle on MOTORESS

Guide To Buying a Used Motorcycle

Looking for a new ride whether it is the latest model from the manufacturer or a used motorcycle is exciting! It is also a lengthy process withe many contemplations as you aim to meet your list of “wishes”.  Especially if you are a first time motorcycle buyer. Buying a used motorcycle is an excellent and incredibly popular option for motorcycle riders – new or advanced. Here I’ve put together the best guide to buying a used motorcycle to help you find a great, safe second-hand ride you’ll love!

IN THE FIRST PLACE

In the first place, you’ll need to decide what type of riding you plan to use the motorcycle for and what type of riding you’ll be doing. Ask yourself, will you be commuting, taking a track day or maybe both? Will you be taking some long distance holidays or short day trips? This way you’ll narrow down your choices. Try to be as honest with yourself as you can when deciding. A super powered sport bike might give you mega cool factor credits but you may just end up hating it if using it as a commuter or to take a passenger along.

BUYING USED FROM A DEALERSHIP

There are many benefits to gain buying from a reputable or even your local dealership. I recommend this as a priority, if you can. Dealerships get many good quality trade-ins. And even though buying private may result in achieving a lower price, you’ll be sacrificing any back-up if the motorcycle breaks down or presents some serious issues after you’ve bought it. And things such as a “bent frame” from a rider who make be stunting as a hobby, are often undetected. Furthermore, most dealerships offer some type of warranty, or at the very least, will work with you should anything go wrong in the first few months of buying.

THINGS TO KNOW IF BUYING PRIVATELY

If you opt for buying from a private seller, check the motorcycle out for yourself. Don’t buy the first bike you look at and if possible, take a trusted rider friend along with you. Don’t look at the bike at night and bring a flashlight along with you to look into the smaller nooks and crannies. Places such as under and around the fuel tank, engine etc. And if necessary remove side panels and fairings. Underneath these you’ll find excellent “tell-tale” signs of the depth of care this motorcycle had been through.

10 CHECKS WHEN BUYING PRIVATELY

These points are key when buying privately however, they are also key factors to check when buying from a dealership or even someone you know.

1.) Tires. These should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage. For those who ride daily, tires will often have more wear in the middle on the tread (more highway driving). Others who’ve raced their motorcycle on the track, will have tires that show more wear at the edge of the tread. Check tire tread depth, profile (if the rear in particular looks a bit “squared off” rather than round, it’s overdue for replacement), and side-wall cracks.
2.)  Check the condition of the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around ¾” of play (up and down) and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn’t be much movement on a good set. Have someone sit down on the motorcycle and check to make sure the chain is somewhat snug, with very little movement up and down. Chains wear out over time, but sprockets should last much longer.
3.)  Check Front Forks / Rear Suspension And Brake Disc Rotors.  The brake disc rotors can be inspected by running your fingernail across them. Feel for uneven wear or grooving. Look into the brake caliper(s) to inspect brake pads for wear. If the rims are spoked, feel to check their overall condition and that each individual spoke is solidly connected.  For bikes with steel rims, look for dents or damage. Inspect the front forks for leaks and compress the front handlebars to observe the fork function. Do the same for rear suspension.
4.)  Sit On The Motorcycle. Observe the condition of the brake and clutch levers, straightness of the bars, bar-end weights, and instrument cluster. If these are marked this could be a sign of an accident or drop. Other signs could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes. Hold the hand brake and bounce up and down the front suspension. It should feel even and firm. Turn the handlebars side to side. Feel for any ‘notchy-ness’ or roughness in the movement or from the steering head. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems. If possible, check the visible frame; remove the seat to see underneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away.
5.)  Inspect The Battery. When the seat is off on most motorcycles, this is where you can get access to the battery. Check that the terminals appear clean. If you can bring a multimeter and test the battery health. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine (be sure it’s cold sellers have been known to get a poor-starting motorcycles hot before a buyer arrives to make it more likely to fire quickly when turned over). The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, that may be a sign of a ‘dodgy’ voltage regulator and it may overcharge a battery and cause it to fail. Check the lights and indicators at this stage also. Pull a fuse or two out and check for corrosion. Do this with the engine off of course.
6.)  Open The Fuel Tank. Inspect the fuel tank by opening and looking in. Here you’ll check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight (**Do Not Use a match or lighter.  Common sense but you’d be surprised).
7.)  Remove Panels / Fairings and Inspect. If it’s a sport bike for sport touring, or as is in many cruiser or roadster models, by removing these you will see first-hand the level of care the current owner has provided. You can inspect for cleanliness, routine maintenance has been done, etc. Here you can view the frame in better detail and look for vulnerabilities at the weld points/joints. Inspect the overall condition of the engine block, radiator and check for leaks around the oil filter and oil pan bolt. Also, find the manufacturer tool kit which should still be available (under the seat or attached to the inside of side panels/fairings).
8.) Check For Small Holes. Look closely at nuts, and fasteners. If you see holes (1/16th of an inch) drilled in fasteners and fluid drain bolts, it’s a dead give-away that the bike was used for racing or for track days.
9.) Check Brake Fluid / Oil levels. The brake fluid can be easily viewed via the master cylinder located usually for the front brake system – in the handlebar area. For the rear,  near the rear tire and rear braking system. Oil can be viewed usually on the right hand side of the bike. Here too will be a eye-glass window if not, via the “dip stick”. Also, at this time, squeeze hard on the front hand brake to feel if there’s a good response. And if you can, while the motorcycle is running, pull hard on the front brake lever and observe the brake flued master cylinder. The fluid level should fall and rise as a good indication of function. Though, on some models this may be difficult to see.
10.)  Get A Professional Inspection. Confirm you’re able to take the bike to a reputable dealership or Government vehicle inspection centre to be assessed and inspected. A few dollars spent now could save you a lot of money and trouble in the future. Furthermore, dealerships can usually do an ownership history search for you to make sure the motorcycle in question wasn’t stolen or hasn’t been listed as “written off” by an insurance company.
11.)  View The Owners Manual/ Service Manual. Any motorcycle owner who is diligent with oil changes, inspections etc will have record. This is the best place to verify service history.

TAKE A TEST RIDE

  1. Pick a nice day with dry roads and good visibility if possible. Bring your bike licence and proper gear. Most dealers will have loaner gear available for you to use. If at a dealer, be prepared to sign an insurance waiver; if privately, be ready to leave your license with the seller as security.
  2. Pick a route that you are familiar with that has light traffic and good road conditions if possible. Start slowly and get used to the way the bike feels and responds.
  3. Listen for any unusual engine noises, suspension creaking or rattling and any undue vibrations. Ask questions about anything you have doubts about.
  4. Test the brakes. They should not ‘pulse’. That is a sign of warped disks. They should engage smoothly and evenly and not grab violently or feel spongy.
  5. Accelerate through the gears. The transmission should feel firm and not slip out of gear under acceleration or feel ‘clunky’.
  6. While on a straight, clean patch of road, swerve left and right slightly to see how the bike responds. It should feel stable and easy to correct.
  7. Inspect the bike again after the ride, looking for any leaks or drips. Check the oil, through either the sight glass or; when the engine cools, the dip-stick if it has one. Most semi or full synthetic oils will darken after only a few miles. That is completely normal.
  8. Ask the seller for a service history a record of bills or receipts. A good rider uses the motorcycle’s owner’s manual for notes and records. Ask for an owner’s manual and factory tool kit if available.

HOW TO NEGOTIATE THE PRICE

  1. Be realistic when negotiating on the final price. For a private seller the bike may have much sentimental value and insulting the seller by offering too low may cost you the sale or ensure that you will not get a fair price.
  2. If at a dealership, realise that the salesperson may have targets to meet and a boss looking over their shoulder. Do some research online; use the retail pricing guides if available, or read the bike classifieds to get a fair market value of the bike. After you’ve done your homework set your buying price accordingly.
  3. Seek a dealership package. If you are buying a used motorcycle from a dealership and it happens to be at the end of riding season, be sure to include a winter storage package in your negotiation. And at any other time, ask for motorcycle gear to be thrown into the deal. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

MORE CAUTIONARY POINTS

  • Beware! Usually a used motorcycle requires a Used Vehicle Information Package, which the seller should provide. You’ll also need a safety certificate I’d hold out for one from a reputable motorcycle shop. Generally, any licensed car mechanic can certify a motorcycle whether they know what to look for or not.
  • If you’re planning on trading in your bike to lower costs: clean it, wash it, wax it and clean the wheels. Every hour the dealer has to spend tidying it up will cost you on the trade in price.
  • If trading in, tighten and lube your chain. Basic maintenance is critical to the trade-in price. A loose, dirty chain is a sure sign of lack of maintenance and will make the dealer wary.
  • If trading in your motorcycle, have a verifiable service history. Have receipts or dealer history available.
  • Know how much your bike is worth and the one you’re buying.
  • Get an ownership history.
  • When negotiating, never take the first offer. A dealership or private seller will state a price based on the fact that there will be negotiating.  And if you’re trading in your used motorcycle to a dealership, they will also low-ball the negotiation. Be ready to barter with the price, discounted service or free or discounted accessories.
  • Insurance is never optional, you will need it eventually.

*NOTE:  Motorcycling involves risks, be prepared before you ride. Invest in good quality riding gear for your greatest comfort and safety. Most importantly, take a course on motorcycle riding. This will help you be proficient in operating the motorcycle and make you a defensive rider while usually lower your insurance rates. Even if you have operated a motorcycle for years, an advance rider class is a way to tweak your riding skills and make you a better safer rider. Ride within your limits and experience and buy the motorcycle you feel you control or overpower not the other way around. If you have any uncertainties about the road or the – merit of a particular machine, trust your instincts and don’t ride. Feel free to contact me directly with any concerns and questions. 


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