Japan by Motorcycle: From City Streets to Mountain Twisties

Last Update: 7 December 2025

Riding a motorcycle in Japan is, quite simply, heaven. On this trip I was on home turf machines — a Honda CB400SF and the Honda NC700R — which somehow made every kilometre feel even more “right.” It wasn’t just the joy of the roads; it was how every stretch of tarmac was framed by a culture unlike anywhere else in the world. Japan itself was eye-opening and awe-inspiring: an ancient etiquette, refined rituals, and unforgettable cuisine — and to experience all of that by motorcycle thrilled me more than I ever imagined!

The roads are immaculate and meticulously maintained. They twist and turn, disappear into tunnels, then climb to viewpoints with spectacular vistas. They trace coastlines with almost tropical scenery, where the scent of pine mixes with salty sea air, later giving way to incense from a nearby shrine or the savoury aroma of soy sizzling from a tiny restaurant. These are sensations only a motorcyclist can truly experience — especially when you’re riding through Japan.

Japan by Motorcycle: Ride All Year Long

It was mid to late November when I visited Japan, and the temperatures hovered around a very comfortable 18°C — pretty much perfect riding weather. Most Japanese riders are on two wheels year-round; they only really park their motorcycles or scooters when snow actually settles on the roads in Tokyo. And even then, I’m told it’s never for very long. I can only imagine how different the experience must be in the peak of summer, with soaring temperatures and heavy humidity added to the mix.

The days shorten quickly at this time of year; by 17:00 it’s already dark, much like Toronto in late autumn. Once the sun slips behind the mountain tops, the air turns quite chilly. The climate shifts slightly from place to place depending on altitude and proximity to the sea, but overall the island feels lush and alive — blanketed in thick forest, with splashes of vivid red and gold as autumn begins to paint the landscape.

Left-Hand Traffic System

Before I left for Japan from Canada, plenty of friends voiced concerns about me riding in Japan’s left-hand traffic (LHT) system. But this wasn’t my first time; I’ve had lots of experience riding on the left – in England and across several British Caribbean islands. I slipped into left-side lane positioning quite naturally. Every now and then, though, I’d catch a glimpse of traffic and think, “Hey, what are you doing on the left side of the road?” — before remembering, of course, that I was the one out of my usual element.

One bonus of the LHT system? Those delicious, curb-hugging sharp left turns—every bit as satisfying as tight right-handers in our right-hand traffic (RHT) world.

The roads themselves are quite narrow, but that barely registered with me — probably thanks to my years of living and riding in Europe. It reminded me of threading through Austrian or Dutch villages, where houses and shops practically form the edge of the roadway. In Japan, the road surfaces stood out: beautifully maintained, clean, and almost purpose-built for motorcycles. No potholes, no random junk, no litter. Japan’s strict social norms play a big role here; littering is strongly frowned upon.

Speed limits are relatively low — typically 80–100 km/h on expressways — and this was the one aspect I found genuinely challenging. Perfectly sweeping roads, light traffic, and no congestion made it very tempting to roll on the throttle. Many of the speed limit signs can be adjusted electronically, and I was told there are cameras everywhere, though I never managed to spot one. Still, exceeding the speed limit is a huge no-no in Japan and comes with serious penalties — definitely not worth the risk, no matter how perfect the road feels.

Toll booths are common — and frequent — along Japan’s national expressways. Fees are calculated by the distance you travel, and I found them rather expensive, which likely explains why the roads are in such immaculate condition. You collect a ticket when you enter the expressway and then pay at a machine further along when you exit. Honestly, I would never have figured this out on my own; thankfully my Japanese friend, born and raised there, handled it all for me. For regular residents, there’s also an electronic toll collection system available, which makes the whole process much easier.

Why Japan Belongs on Your Riding Bucket List

The entire experience was nothing short of perfection, and I can honestly say I’ve been deeply moved by this beautiful country and its riding culture. Adding Japan to my list of motorcycle adventures is something I’ll never forget. The fundamentals of riding are the same everywhere, but in Japan the stage — shaped by Nippon’s unique culture, courtesy, and rhythm — truly compares to none. I can’t wait to return, and I’d recommend riding Japan as an absolute must-do for any motorcyclist.

Chasing Lines on Mt. Nantai

Oh yes — I have to tell you about the ride up Mt. Nantai along Lake Chuzenji. It was absolutely breathtaking. My local friend Hideo-san (a former motorcycle racer and Formula 1 test driver) led the way, escorting us up and down the mountain through the chicanes after glorious chicane. He knows Mt. Nantai like the back of his hand, carving smooth, fast, perfectly timed lines on his Triumph Bonneville. And then there was the The Irohazaka Winding Road  –  15.8 kilometres (9.8 miles) long, consisting of two separate one-way roads (one up, one down) each featuring 48 hairpin turns, connecting central Nikko with Lake Chuzenji. Indeed there was a bit of trying to keep up with his harmonious rhythm through the twisties was pure, unforgettable fun.

I have a feeling Japan will keep showing up in my stories for a long time to come — there’s still so much to share from its mountains, temples, and back roads. For now, I’ll simply say a grateful sayonara and leave you with this: if Japan is on your riding wish list, don’t let it stay a dream for too long. The roads, the culture, and the quiet magic of riding there are absolutely worth the journey!

---